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Move Over Disneyland Welcome to Bangkok!

28.12.2009 10:32
Move Over Disneyland  Welcome to Bangkok! - Gay - gay website


As a child traipsing about the magic kingdom in Southern California I was enthralled by exotic attractions such as the Jungle Cruise and Pirates of the Caribbean, and by the whole “otherworld” feel of the place, complete with castles, fairytale characters, and rides offering the thrill of a lifetime. As an adult living in Bangkok—also known as The Big Mango—let’s just say the thrills are quite different and ‘Fantasyland’ has taken on a whole new meaning.



There’s no need for Snow White because in this very real Kingdom we are honored to have Their Majesties the King and Queen and the much revered Royal Family, complete with motorcades and millions of adoring subjects (many of whom I know you adore!).

At TourismThailand.com, a web site you will find invaluable, we learn that “Bangkok was founded in 1782 by the first monarch of the present Chakri dynasty.  It is now the country’s spiritual, cultural, diplomatic, commercial and educational hub.  It covers an area of more than 1,500 square kilometers and is home to over ten million people or more than 10% of the country’s population.”  One of the world’s most popular tourist destinations, especially for gay travelers, this City of Angels offers excitement 24/7, as well as ample opportunities to relax.

Bangkok BTS

Getting Here, Getting Around One of the great benefits of Bangkok itself is its network of sky trains (BTS), subways (MRT), bus lines, motorcycle taxis, water taxis, Tuk-Tuks (like a rickshaw merged with a motorcycle) and basic metered taxis.  Because of heavy traffic, it is advisable to use the sky trains, subways, and the motorcycle taxis which weave easily in and out of gridlock!  Always ask for a helmet as a passenger of a motorcycle taxi and make sure the strap is fastened snuggly and correctly.  Negotiate the fare (very similar to what a metered taxi would cost for the same distance) before taking the ride. For the metered taxis, it is generally best to hail a moving taxi than to approach a parked taxi as all are “parked & waiting” to charge you way too high non-metered rates.  

You only need to ride a Tuk-Tuk once in your life for the adventure of it all, as they are more expensive and not as comfortable as taxis, and cannot get you there any faster, but negotiate your fare in advance and do NOT take the driver up on any suggestions to show you stores, shops, bargains, etc.  In fact, it is best to avoid anyone anywhere who tells you they can hook you up with a great deal as there’s always something in it for them.

Art & Culture
Move Over Disneyland  Welcome to Bangkok! - Gay - gay websiteFilm, music and dance festivals of all varieties are available in the City of Angels, including major concerts with performers such as Gwen Stefani, Roberta Flack, and touring Broadway shows such as Mama Mia, Cats and Westside Story, along with high caliber locally-produced original productions, all at venues such as Impact Arena, the Thailand Cultural Center and the Muang Thai Ratchadalai Theater.  One not-to-miss state-of-the-art cultural extravaganza is at the Siam Niramit Theater, offering “a world-class performance of Thailand’s arts and cultural heritage.” The show now holds a Guinness World Record and features over 150 performers and 500 costumes.  Among the special effects, lots of flying and, oh yes, a thunder storm!  (SiamNiramit.com) The Bangkok Art & Cultural Center, adjacent to the National Stadium sky train station, is also a must-see.  Bangkok is filled with all sorts of galleries and exhibitions, many of which are housed in the Silom Galleria. Local daily newspapers such as the Nation and the Bangkok Post will have the most recent listings of gallery openings and so much more.
A River Runs Through It Magical, mystical and powerful, the Chao Phraya River is known as “The River of Kings” and there are several ways I suggest you experience it, the first being a dinner cruise of which there are many.  The elegant Loy Nava Dinner Cruise (LoyNava.com) takes place on an authentic open-air rice barge—and the owner is very charitable with our community.  At the Saphan Thaksin pier—adjacent to the sky train station of the same name—are free shuttle boats to some of the nicest hotels on the river, all of which have great venues for drinking and dining.

At most piers on the river, locals will take the inexpensive water taxis, your best bet as well if you are going directly to only one other destination.  Tickets are available at most piers for the separate Chao Phraya Tourist Boat for around 100 baht, allowing you to get on and off the boats throughout the day.  English-language announcers point out riverside attractions including Wat Arun and pier-adjacent sites such as Wat Pho (home of the reclining Buddha and one of the best places to get an authentic Thai massage) and, of course, the Grand Palace (no shorts allowed).

Scene from Siam Niramit performanceNot on the river but for true culture vultures interested in both history and architecture, I recommend a visit to Thailand’s very first museum, the Suan Pakkad Palace, founded by its owners their Royal Highnesses Prince and Princess Chumbhot of Nagara Svarga (SuanPakkad.com).  Elsewhere, the Jim Thompson House is where the American entrepreneur—who founded a Thai silk company of the same name—lived before he disappeared mysteriously during a walk in Malaysia, as in the country, not the hotel (JimThompsonHouse.org).
Lectures, a library and authentic Thai homes are on offer at the Siam Society which survived a fire in late 2009 (Siam-Society.org).

An undiscovered gem for many is a similar offering in the Sathorn area, M.R. Kukrit’s Heritage Home (“MR” is the abbreviation for the royal title Mom Rajawongse, a direct descendant of a King).  The compound houses many authentic Thai teak homes—one of which is more than 100 years old—that were disassembled, transported and reassembled over a 20 year period (kukritshousefund.com).  Another wow venue is The Vimanmek Palace, the world’s largest golden teak wood mansion (before visiting, note their dress code at Vimanmek.com).

Shopping Sprees
I suggest allocating at least a half-day for a “Mall Crawl” as I like to call it, which means exploring many of the shopping venues along the sky train between the National Stadium and Chit Lom stations, including Mahboonkrong (MBK), Siam Square, Siam Discovery Center, Siam Center, Siam Paragon, Gaysorn Plaza, CentralWorld and more, all accessible via a sky walk.  On this trip or another, check out the mega computer, electronics and software-filled Pantip Plaza located sort of “behind” CentralWorld.  Nearby is the newly opened Platinum Fashion Mall offering wholesale prices on items you won’t believe.

On the other side of town, as explained by Bangkok.com, “Chatuchak Weekend Market in Bangkok is the mother of all markets—and possibly one of the biggest and most famous markets in the world…covering 70 Rai (35 acres) of land with over 15,000 stalls and more than 200,000 visitors every Saturday and Sunday.”  Yes, there is a subway stop named after the market, but exit instead at the Kamphaengphet station to emerge in the middle of the shopping, or take the sky train to the Mo Chit station.

Similar items may be found at the Lumphini Night Bazaar, and also along Silom every night except Monday, and at the Patpong Night Market on the notorious Soi of the same name.  When I see something I like, I pick it up, enquire about the price, barter to the best of my ability to get the best price. If you have a Thai friend he can go back and almost always get a better price (or you can learn to speak Thai and achieve these results on your own).

It’s a Gay World After All
I know you want to people-watch, so for the best mid-to-late afternoon location, hang out at Chester’s Coffee in the atrium of the Silom Complex (on the same level as and just off the Sala Daeng sky train station).  You’ll see guys meeting their online dates for the first time in the real world, and plenty of freelance money boys vying for your attention, so beware of those friendly smiles and welcoming glances if you do not want to pay for companionship.

At night and just across the street, watch the “man parade” from the outdoor patio (the only one on Silom) of Coffee Society (two store fronts from Burger King) for a gay’s eye view of men migrating from Silom Soi 4 to catch the 11:30 drag show at DJ Station in Soi 2, also the home of Disco Disco and the Thai-centric Espresso Club. Heads up!  No open-toed shoes are allowed in Soi 2.  By the way, both Coffee Society and the nearby Bug & Bee (they have a fascinating menu with many vegetarian choices) are open 24/7 and offer free WiFi.  Coffee Society has 10-baht per 10-minutes coin-operated computers on the second floor, adjacent to extra large windows overlooking the patio.

The entire Silom area has a definite feel of an adult Disneyland where, on Soi 4, you can “take a ride” while enjoying happy hour prices and a meal at the extremely popular Telephone Pub or The Balcony while watching fascinating people from all walks of life whirl by.  Both these establishments face each other—as do their respective customers—so the eye candy never ceases.

Further into the Soi is Sphinx which is both, but refreshingly much more like a restaurant than a bar—like one you’d find in Palm Springs—complete with great Western and Thai dishes—on the menu and sitting at the bar!  For you Asian Idol competitors, sing your hearts out at Karaoke upstairs at Telephone, Balcony and Sphinx, and at The Thai-centric Bearbie bar.

The most Cheers-like (where everybody knows your name) bar in the Silom area and my frequent hangout—in addition to Coffee Society—is @Richard’s Pub and Restaurant adjacent to the popular late night dance club, G.O.D. Their Friday night buffets are a hit as is their regular quiz night, and their outdoor seating area is popular.

“Fantasyland”
Just one city block over but worlds away, Soi Duangthawee—also known as Soi Twilight—is jam-packed with male go-go bars, go-go boys, “special shows” and massage venues.  While there, enjoy Dick’s Café and Maxis Bar & Restaurant, each offering delicious food and front row seats to the very eclectic, international crowd parading up and down the street.  Think Las Vegas meets Moulin Rouge!
Tourists who love this scene will often stay at the very nearby Tarntawan Place Hotel, not to be confused with the Tawan Bar known for its muscled go-go boys.  Elsewhere in the district close to the Chong Nonsi sky train station (one stop away from Sala Deang BTS station) enjoy the Unico Grande Silom where the rate includes a breakfast buffet and swimming pool or for a more intimate gay boutique hotel- try the Om Yim Lodge.

The Castro or the West Hollywood of Bangkok is definitely my neighborhood around Sathorn Soi 1.  Most known for Babylon Sauna and the Malaysia Hotel, you’ll also find the Pinnacle Hotel, the new Ibis Hotel, Vincent’s Restaurant and the Seven Rooms—and the Cybele Franc Restaurant, complete with a dressmaker!  Some of the best international food in the neighborhood is at Trajai Steak House, and the quaint O-Ho Restaurant has a loyal gay following.  Night owls flock to the Malai Coffee Shop in the Malaysia Hotel, open 24/7.

Around the corner at the Mali Restaurant, hang out on their indoor/outdoor patio in one of three elevated, street-side booths—one even called “the Crow’s nest”—in the evening to watch another titillating “man parade” of guys on their way back from Babylon to area hotels.  Babylon is not only popular for men seeking discreet excitement away from mostly-closeted realities, but also for its pool, gym, restaurants and colorful entertainment.  For a similar, mostly-Asian experience, head across town to Chakran Sauna on Soi Ari.

Heading out to “Frontierland” so to speak, check out the Thai club scene located in primarily two areas, with one cluster on Kamphaengpet Road near Chatuchak Weekend Market.  All are welcome in these Thai areas but better to go with Thai friends as it is hard to make friends on your own if you don’t speak Thai. To mingle with this young, hip, club-hopping crowd at El Nino, Fake Club and Wow, ride the subway to the Kamphaengpet station, take exit 1 to the street level, do an immediate u-turn, walk about 300 meters and party!  For another equally exciting very Thai experience, hail a taxi to Ramkhamhaeng Road, Soi 89/2, where you’ll find Club 9 Café, ICK Pub, See Men, Crazy Dance Club, and Lamsalee Dance Pub, among others.

Play Safely
Official reports indicate at least three out of ten MSM (men who have sex with men) in Bangkok are HIV positive.  I am one of them as a result of my own lapse of judgment a moment of passion in 2007. Make sure you are having safer sex (use a condom every time).  I encourage you to take advantage of the opportunity to get fairly affordable (for most tourists), anonymous HIV testing and STD (sexually transmitted disease) screenings at the Thai Red Cross (redcross.or.th) located within walking distance of the Ratchadamri sky train station (walk back towards Silom on the right-hand side of the street).

If you are in need of free, anonymous HIV testing, check out the Silom Community Clinic discreetly located on third floor of Bangkok Christian Hospital on Silom, open Tuesday through Saturday, 4:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. (silomclinic.in.th).  Confidential (NOT anonymous) tests are also available at all major hospitals and can be added to your Expat check-up if you’re a medical tourist.

Medical tourism is big business for Thailand for a reason, attracting people from all over the world for quality affordable healthcare.  I have recently been exploring the combination of eastern and western medicine available at TRIA Integrative Medical Institute. Such options we have in Bangkok! By the way, there’s no need to pay the private hospital price for a medical certificate if required for your immigration paperwork, as these certificates are a fraction of the price at neighborhood medical clinics.

Massage
Thai massage is renowned worldwide for its healing and therapeutic benefits and is offered at unbelievable prices throughout Thailand.  Clearly, some businesses masquerading as “massage parlors” are definitely offering much more and their services don’t necessarily include an actual massage.  Use your common sense about the establishment of your choosing depending upon your desires.
For a genuine two-hour Thai massage (it’s like having someone do yoga for you!), I prefer to go to the Malaysia Hotel and pay 300 baht instead of paying 3000 or 5000 baht at the many luxury spas around. For a very good professional massage in a private room with shower at a decent price, I recommend one of the many Health Land Spa locations, (like at 120 N. Sathorn Road) for a 1.5 hour aromatherapy massage in a private room with private shower for only 850 baht.

Don’t Miss…

Anything in this story, but also:  …Lumphini Park-Bangkok’s answer to New York’s Central Park, filled with fitness enthusiasts in the early morning, late afternoons and early evenings, offering outdoor gym and workout facilities, aerobics classes and lots of eye candy. Also home of Lumphini Park Stadium on Rama IV Road for Muay Thai boxing (www.muaythaionline.org),…A visit to the Emporium Shopping Mall and on the top floor, the Thailand Creative and Design Center and the adjacent, quaint, gay-owned Kiosk Café. ...Ethnic eats at Coyote on Convent (Mexican) and at Zanotti (Italian) on Sala Daeng. …A visit to the Vertigo Grill and Moon Bar, a former helicopter pad atop the Banyan Tree Hotel (no open-toed shoes allowed). …A movie at any of the city’s world-class, plush, even VIP cinemas. …And street food!  Delicious!  I’ve eaten it hundreds of times. The wonderful club style cabaret show at the Asia Hotel called Calypso Cabaret Virtually everyone who visits this very real magic Kingdom realizes there is major truth-in-advertising in the slogan, “Amazing Thailand.” Whether you’re a devil or not a visit to the City of Angels will transform your experience of life.

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