Chiang Mai Update

Where did we stay?
The first two nights we stayed at Lotus Hotel. It’s always been one of my favorites. The charming owner is Mohamad Jesr, a Lebanese architect and exporter. He came here 16 yrs ago, and, like most, fell in love with the town and…fell in love. The next time he returned, the boy had postcards from 15 countries all over the walls of his room, but Mohamad still loved the town.

Originally, the building was for his export business but in Oct of 1991, he opened it as a 6-room, gay hotel; it has 20 employees, will have 18 rooms by this autumn, and eventually there will be 25 accommodations. Today’s rates: THB 1200-2600. We stayed in two, beautiful, antique-filled suites1200-2600 THB.
Lotus is one of the best known and most popular hotels in town; I asked Mohamad why?
“The secret is being a GOOD 3-star hotel in a good location – most places of interest to the gay guys are within a 5-minute walk,” he said.

He’s right; people expect less, and when they get more, they are thrilled. Besides, I don’t know many 3-star hotels with a 500-film video library PLUS a real book library with books in English, Dutch, French, and German!
I love the bag of toiletries that Mohamad puts in each room. The label says: “The items in the bag cannot be used selectively. Once the bag is opened, you will be charged for it. The bag contains: One comb, one toothbrush, one tube of toothpaste, one box of condoms, one small pack of lubricant gel, one pack of cotton buds, and one disposable razor.”

Dinner is served in the garden bar–delicious Thai and Mediterranean dishes with a few selections of vegetarian plates. I love the Lebanese dishes! Later on, the bar is frequented by a wide variety of men. Chiang Mai tourists are mainly older–like discos and free cruising, and just in case you’re interested, there are many Scandinavians.

The third night we stayed at PJ’s Place—an international favorite.
Situated on the northwest corner of Chiang Mai in the shadow of Wat Phrathet Doi Suthep and close to all amenities, PJ’s Place is also convenient to the other areas of Chiang Mai, and is just a short tuk-tuk ride from the Night Bazaar area.

PJ’s Place has modern, custom built accommodations including ADSL internet access in all rooms and has such remarkably high levels of comfort, cleanliness, and hygiene, that, combined with Peter and Jiap’s warm and friendly service, many vote it the No.1 guesthouse in Chiang Mai. It certainly couldn’t be more gay-friendly!
Facilities include: Fully licensed bar, Thai massage, Laundry service, Tours and booking services, Car with driver hire, Self-drive car and motorcycle hire, Personal licensed tour guides, and a Health check at Chiang Mai Ram hospital.

Double Deluxe – Bt1,500/night, Double Suite House – Bt3,000/Night. (All prices are inclusive of breakfast and airport transfers.)

A typical entry in the online guestbook:
“Only superlatives can describe my experience as a guest. Peter and Jiab are the most thoughtful and attentive hosts I’ve encountered in a guest-house. The accommodations they’ve so carefully designed are beautiful, and comfortable; the environment, quietness and quality of service are second to none!”
I’ll add my own: Now that I’ve actually stayed the night in their wonderful guest house—the suites that Phil and I had were more like detached, private homes—I can genuinely say that this is one of the most comfortable places I’ve stayed in Thailand, and Peter and Jiap are extraordinary hosts.
PJ’s Place, Tel: 053 404894, Mobile:08-1474-8699

Where did we dine?
Both restaurants at the Four Seasons Resort in Mae Rim are delicious and delightful; we lunched outdoors on fabulous Lanna cuisine. There is a free shuttle from downtown out here and back several times a day, so there is no good reason not to visit this most beautiful resort (and by all accounts the #1 Spa in Asia) even if it is just to look at the inspiring view or for a cup of tea. I’ve known the GM, Todd Cilano, for ten years, and he’ll welcome you warmly.

We lunched at the Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi—wonderful dim sum! This is one of the most extraordinary resorts in the world and…stocks SPICE! magazine!
The atmosphere in the bar and restaurant ofRachamankha is tres soignée. This is one of the most special hotels in the world and I devoted several pages to it in SPICE! Issue #34 – May/June 2008. In the center of the moated old town; tel: 053-904111.

Also in the center, don’t miss The House
Restaurant & Wine and Tapas Bar. We were hosted by Chatchai Jultamara, the charming general manager. There is a Moroccan-style cocktail lounge outside that offers eight varieties of a Martini cocktail. Inside, one dines in the spacious living room of this large old Colonial house—great food, ambiance, and value. Dinner will cost approximately Bt1050 per person. There is no dress code. 199 Moonmuang Rd; tel: (053) 419011; email: thehouse@cm.ksc.co.th. Adjoining is GINGER & Kafe—a very chic gift shop frequented by all the best interior designers in Thailand, combined with an informal indoor-outdoor restaurant and wine and tapas bar.
The Gallery—great tropical ambiance on the Ping River, charming staff, good food and drink. Surachai Leosawasthiphong, the founder and managing director, hosted us to a remarkable dinner. He is a London-educated civil engineer who has worked with the most famous engineers in Thailand on several of the royal projects.

“Seventeen years ago, there was no decent place to eat in Chiang Mai, so I converted one of my family’s steel warehouses into The Gallery. I guess we are the busiest restaurant in town, he said, (as another tour bus disgorged its passengers).

Tour buses or not, the place is large enough to absorb several bus loads…and still produce delicious dishes from the freshest of ingredients! Dinner costs approximately Bt1200 per person including wine (best value wine list in Chiang Mai). There is a good jazz club in an adjoining room. This is my (and Hillary Clinton’s) favorite restaurant on the river. 25, 27, 29 Charernras Rd., 053-248601.

Girasole—a delightful al fresco restaurant (unless the people at the next table are smoking…we had to move tables twice) owned and operated by our old friend,  Stephano, who owns La Gondola (currently closed). Kad Klang Vieng (you have to look for the sign very carefully…and AGAIN!), Wat Pan-On Intersection (near Tamarind Village), 71 Ratchadamnoen Rd., 053-276388.

Day Notes:
We visited the new River House Massage. What a surprise! It consists of a cute house and garden sitting on the banks of the Ping River. Everything is brand new; the guys are professional, and the host stunning! Try it! (See the ad in this issue.)

We dropped in to see “Aunt” Arthur at House of Male (gym, sauna, pool). The joint was jumping and the pool was full of beauties! Arthur puts out his own “Guide for Chiang Mai,” a good example of how much he cares for his clients.

Back in town, we called on the even newer, 2 Brothers Massage and Tour. Neither of us had time for either but we highly recommend it! (See the ad in this issue.)

After Dark Notes:
Had great Mojitos at Mix Bar at D2—the newish, Dusit-owned, “hip” hotel brand. Both Phil and I have stayed here independently and we are not so sure it lives up to its slogan, but it is certainly different than most you’ll find in town—there’s not a Thai accent in sight!

D2 is around the corned from both The Peak and the Night Bazaar gay bars. We got pretty reliable information that The Peak area is heading for reconstruction as the current contracts/leases are going to be cancelled. Many of the bars have been up for sale for a considerable time and some have already closed. Several of the guys we met at Friendship, considered one of the friendliest of the Night Bazaar group, agreed that this was sad, but since the climbing wall burned down on New Year’s Day, the area has gone down hill.

Getting around:
We used Chiangmai Airport Taxi Co-Operation Ltd. Our driver was Tawach Suwanpo – Mobile: 08-1950-8585, and he didn’t get lost. If you haven’t been to Chiang Mai, go! It is very special. All the best, Uncle Ted